The Influence of Artificial Intelligence in the World of Perfumes.
Some consider it innovative, while others see it as a form of erasure.
In a high-tech and multimillion-dollar lab on Manhattan's waterfront, a piece of summer plum is being transformed into a fragrance code. This is the goal of Osmo, a fragrance technology startup that claims to be developing artificial olfactory intelligence. This venture aims to offer customized fragrance compounds with surprising speed: it can deliver a sample within 48 hours of the customer's initial request. Thus, the wait time for a personalized perfume could be as brief as that of an Amazon Prime order.
Traditionally, creating a fragrance is a lengthy process. After a customer provides a concept or feeling, a perfumer may take weeks or even months to develop the formula, making numerous modifications. Each version must be stabilized before being assessed for balance and persistence on the skin. Additionally, the raw materials may require years of cultivation, and the process includes bottling and regulatory reviews. Overall, the time from idea to market can range from six months to a year and a half, or even more in the case of luxury perfumes.
Osmo seeks to revolutionize this market by digitalizing a plum and the agility with which it can analyze and manipulate scent molecules. At a fragrance conference, I had the opportunity to smell the "digitalized plum," and opinions varied: some found it too medicinal or artificial, questioning the absence of elements like maturity or complexity that a human perfumer would bring.
Artificial intelligence (AI) is already present in the fragrance world through major industry conglomerates like DSM-Firmenich, Givaudan, IFF, and Symrise, which integrate AI into their processes. For example, Givaudan uses a system called Carto to help perfumers refine their formulas, while DSM-Firmenich offers its EmotiON platform to create scents that supposedly enhance well-being.
Frank Voelkl, the master perfumer at DSM-Firmenich, claims to use AI daily, easing technical and legal aspects so he can focus on the creative part of the process, which is where his imagination and intuition are required. Young perfumers like Heather in France have integrated the use of AI into their training, viewing it as an essential tool in their creative process, while previous generations see it as a secondary resource.
Professor Pierre Vouard warns about the potential loss of artisanal skills as the generation of new fragrances becomes democratized, making it more accessible from a financial perspective. However, perfumers like Michael Nordstrand criticize the lack of transparency in the practices of AI-based fragrance companies, which often bypass the knowledge developed by professionals in the field.
Osmo, whose number of fragrances produced exceeds those created in past decades, claims that its model consumes less energy than other AI systems. However, they also acknowledge that they do not track the energy consumption of their processes, raising doubts about the sustainability of their practices.
The use of AI in the beauty industry is a complex and evolving reality. Some independent brands are applying techniques like AI-generated videos to simulate messages from their founders without revealing their origin, which raises concerns among fragrance consultants about the devaluation of human work and environmental impact. Additionally, natural materials require years of harvesting and curing, while labs like Osmo can provide a personalized sample within days.
The speed of this process, although appealing, raises questions about the disconnection that could arise from the physical world from which these fragrances emanate. At Stéle, a fragrance retailer in New York, the tension between speed and authenticity in the creation process is palpable. The co-founders feel that the integrity of craftsmanship in perfumery is at risk and argue that transparency about the use of AI in the creative process should be a priority.
Without a clear dialogue about the place of AI in perfumery, the future of this industry may evolve without consideration for the human traditions that have brought fragrances to life in the first place.
